After having installed a few vibration isolators on garage doors using my older complicated “hanger bolts” method, I wanted a much easier method. I removed the rubber vibration isolators from their housings and pushed them through the holes in a piece of angle iron (just like most garage door openers hang from already). I bought a couple of L-brackets from a hardware store and modified them slightly. I use these to attach to the opener motor housing.
I also hope to try using a spring dampener (Mason 5C141) sometime, but those are way more expensive ($38 each or $72 for a pair).
NOTE: I’m not an engineer. If you choose to follow this design, it is at your own risk. I’m only showing how I approached the problem, not recommending that you do the same. If you are not comfortable lifting heavy objects and balancing on a ladder, cutting metal, and assembling things, please find a pro to do the install for you.
I go into more detail in the original posting linked above. See that one for more information. The basic concept is that rigid structures transmit vibration energy well, and this becomes noise in the rooms above the garage. Sometimes quite a loud noise. The goal in this project is to absorb the vibrational energy from the motor, and dissipate it through two pieces of flexible neoprene to keep it from continuing on into the wooden house beams.
I first measured the most critical piece of information: “How far down from the CEILING is the top of the motor housing?” This is also the where it will need to be when the project is complete. Varying a half-inch or so shouldn’t make any difference.
I placed a ladder with a built-in support beneath the garage door opener, detached the motor housing from the angle irons, and rested it on the ladder support. I attached the new piece of angle iron, isolators, and L-brackets to the housing and marked on the vertical pieces where it needed to be anchored.
I removed the vertical pieces and cut them, and then filed off the sharp edges, then remounted them but closer to center to fit between the rubber isolators.
Here is the result. Front view and back view.
This method took far less time and effort, requires only normal 3/4-inch 5/16 bolts and nuts, some angle iron, a couple of L-brackets, and the same vibration isolators removed from their housings.
The effect is the same, very quiet garage door opening. I didn’t even need to install the 45-degree angle iron that I removed from the original install.
Here is a list of the parts (not all pictured):
Mason 2LVR8 from Grainger.com $9 x2 ($18)
Machine bolts 5/16 x 2 1/2-in x2 [these hang through the rubber isolators]
5/16 metal washers x2
5/16 fender washers x2
3/8 (fit better) neoprene washers x2
5/16 nylon locking nuts x2
Angle iron 1 1/2 inch, 14ga, at least 1ft long
L-brackets x2 (size?)
Same tools needed, but also a sawzall with a metal-cutting blade (or equivalent), and a file to take off the sharp edges and corners
UPDATE SEPTEMBER 2020:
Overall, it would be nice to make the system even more quiet. But the challenge is the several other rigid points of contact that the door track has to the wall and ceiling. These points can’t be isolated in the same way as the motor, and a certain amount of rigidity is required for the door to open and close properly.
(Click to open larger pictures)
I did try to mitigate some of the vibration using Sorbothane washers between mount points, but this didn’t noticeably make things more quiet.